Rodrigues has been described as THE nature destination par excellence, and is undeniably seductive for its rugged beauty. But are you familiar with its subterranean landscapes? Follow me into the caves of François Leguat, to play speleologist for a visit!
Florence Guillemain
A unique site
In Rodrigues, everything seems connected to nature. Just look at the fisherwomen sinking into the immense lagoon, the rolling hills populated by farm animals: sheep, cows, goats and pigs. Or the dreamy deserted beaches that seem to belong to you. But who’d suspect that a natural gem is hiding underground? Just a stone’s throw from the airport, in the heart of the François Leguat reserve, its natural heritage is a curiosity waiting to be discovered. Carved out naturally by the sea, the 500-metre-long Grande Caverne plunges you underground into an enchanting, silent limestone world.
Today, Bernard will be my guide. He’s been working here for 12 years and knows his subject like the back of his hand. I follow him through the park, where we come across numerous Aldabra and Radiata tortoises, reintroduced since the disappearance of the island’s endemic tortoise. He explains their extremely important role in the ecosystem. Their droppings replant the park. The limestone soil, a priori hostile, seemed unsuitable for plants, but against all odds, Aurèle Anquetil André, the director, set himself a challenge in 2004 by planting 300,000 individuals of 39 different endemic species. “Plants are like people: they adapt,” he says with a victorious smile.
An underground adventure
Arriving in front of the cave, I don a helmet and follow Bernard’s lead with his flashlight. A wooden pathway makes it easy to walk along the walls, in the glow of a soft light. The immersion begins with the spectacle of stalactites and stalagmites. Bernard remotely operates spotlights aimed at the most impressive parts of the cave. The dark limestone landscape suddenly lights up as if by magic. It’s magnificent! High walkways bring you right up close to the limestone. Only the sound of a few drops of water falling continuously echoes in the ambient silence of this subterranean landscape. The expert guide invites me to visualize the unusual shapes formed by erosion: a boat, a gorilla, an elephant… On the way out, my eyes have a hard time adjusting to the light. We were well underground!
Researchers have been focusing on the underground characteristics of the Mascarene Islands. In fact, Boston University came here to define the site’s climatic past and future. Rodrigues eagerly awaits the results. A visit to the reserve takes at least 3 hours if you linger in the museum and tickle the turtles’ heads.
François Leguat – Réserve Rodrigues – Anse Quitor
Tel : 832 8141
Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
